Kumapeto kwa zaka za m'ma 1980, mphunzitsi wa vinyo Rosemary George analemba buku labwino kwambiri lakuti Chianti ndi Wines Tuscany, yomwe ndikuyamikira kwambiri kwa aliyense yemwe ali ndi chidwi ndi vinyo wa ku Italy. Nditangoyamba kuwerenga, ndinakhudzidwa ndi mfundo imodzi: Nthawi iliyonse akakhudza nkhani yaminga, mwachitsanzo, kugwiritsa ntchito zomwe zimatchedwa "mphesa zowonjezera" (mphesa zoonjezera za Tuscan monga Cabernet, Merlot, kapena chirichonse) kupereka Chianti chifukwa chokoma kwambiri padziko lonse lapansi, nthawi zonse amalemba mawu a Paolo de Marchi wa Tuscany olemekezeka a Isole e Olena.
Pamene ndikuchita kafukufuku pa ulendo wa chigawo cha Chianti Classico, ndinakumana naye ndikuzindikira chifukwa chake. Paolo ndi mkazi wake, Marta, ndi awiri mwa anthu abwino kwambiri omwe ndimadziwa; otseguka kwambiri ndi okonzeka kutenga nthawi kuti athandize anthu. Iye amadziwikanso kuti ndi mmodzi mwa anthu khumi omwe amapanga vinyo padziko lonse lapansi. Malingaliro ake amalingaliridwa mosamalitsa ndipo amapanga luntha lalikulu. Ndipo inde, asintha kuchokera pamene adayankhula ndi Rosemary kwa buku lake.
Panthawi imeneyo, Paolo adakondwera ndi mwayi wogwiritsa ntchito mphesa zosavuta kuwonjezera pa polisi ndi chilakolako ku Chianti Classico. Ngakhale kuti dera lomwe lili pakati pa Florence ndi Siena nthawizonse limakhala ndi vinyo wabwino kwambiri, pamene Baron Bettino Ricasoli anapanga Chianti Classico m'zaka za m'ma 1850 amagwiritsira ntchito kwambiri Sangiovese, mphesa yaikulu yofiira ya Tuscany, ndi ena a Canaiolo Toscano (mphesa ina yofiira, kukwiyitsa Sangiovese) .
Ngakhale kuti vinyo anali abwino kwambiri ndipo adagonjetsa ndondomeko, ankafuna kukalamba, moteronso adakonzekera vinyo wambiri wokhala ndi Malvasia del Chianti, mphesa yoyera.
Mwamwayi, Komiti yomwe inakhazikitsa DOC ku dera la Chianti Classico idalandira njira zowonjezereka ndikupanga okakamiza kuti azitenga mphesa zoyera m'minda yawo; vinyo wochuluka wopangidwa motsatira malamulowo anali osauka, chifaniziro cha Chianti anavutika, ndipo ambiri opanga bwino anayamba kuyesa zofanana za Sangiovese ndi Cabernet kapena mitundu ina ya mphesa. Mwachitsanzo, Antinori anapanga Tignanello, wapamwamba kwambiri wa Sangiovese- Cabernet ikuphatikizapo dzina lake Vino da Tavola (vinyo wa tebulo, gulu lotsika kwambiri) chifukwa silingakwaniritse udindo wa DOC.
Posakhalitsa aliyense ankayesa mavinyo ena mophatikizapo, ndipo ambiri anali kuwonjezera magawo ang'onoang'ono a Cabernet kapena Merlot ku Chianti Classico kuti apereke mayiko ambiri. Paolo anabzala munda wamphesa wa ku Cabernet, "mbali ina chifukwa nthaka inali yabwino kwa mphesa za Cabernet, komanso mbali ina chifukwa aliyense anali kuchita izo." Poyamba anali kuganiza kuti agwiritse ntchito kabernet kuti apange thupi lake ndi Chianti Classico, koma anaganiza kuti Cabernet idzagonjetse Sangiovese (iye ali ndi mfundo; ambiri a Chiantis omwe Cabernet ali nawo ali ndi chidziwitso chosiyana wachitsulo mumaluwa awo).
Pomalizira pake adaganiza kuti mphesa yabwino yotchedwa Sangiovese ndi Syrah, mphesa yabwino yaku French kuchokera ku Rhone Valley, ndipo idabzala maekala angapo. Komabe, nthawi yomwe munda wamphesawo unayamba kupanga, ankangoganiza za kugwiritsira ntchito mphesa zowonjezera: "Ayenera kuyang'aniranso," akutero. Mphamvu za Tuscany, monga za malo alionse opatsa vinyo, zimakhala mu maonekedwe a vinyo, zomwe zimapangitsa vinyo kukhala osakwanira. " Makhalidwe amenewa amabwera kuchokera ku mphesa ya Sangiovese, ndipo tsopano akufika pamapeto akuti maTuscans amayenera kugwira ntchito ndi magulu awo a Sangiovese (chodalira ndi mphesa zosiyanasiyana), kusankha okhawo omwe amapereka mphesa zabwino kuti apange vinyo wabwino kwambiri .
Mwa lingaliro lake, chinsinsi chopanga vinyo wabwino ndi ntchito m'munda wamphesa; Chimene chimachitika mu winery mutatha nthawi yokolola ndi yachiwiri. Ndi mphesa zomwe zimawerengedwa.
Chikhulupiliro cha Paolo pa kufunika kwa mawonekedwe a vinyo sikuti chimangokhala njoka; amatumiza ku mayiko 26 (kumapeto), agwira ntchito ku California, wafika ku Australia mobwerezabwereza, ndipo walawa vinyo kuchokera kudziko lonse lapansi.
Australia ili ndi chuma chochuluka, Chile ili ndi ndalama zochepa zothandizira, monga momwe South Africa, ndi Eastern Europe ndizosawerengeka zomwe zingakhale ngati chimphona chogona. Monga akufotokozera, pafupifupi aliyense angathe kutulutsa vinyo "wamayiko akunja" ndi gawo lalikulu la Cabernet ndi mphesa zina, ndikuchita ntchito yabwino; Ogulitsa Tuscan omwe amatsata njirayi pofuna kuyesa kukondweretsa dziko lonse lapansi amatha kudzipeza kuti ali otsika mtengo pamsika chifukwa ndalamazo ndizopambana kuposa za mpikisano omwe angathe kugwiritsa ntchito ntchito yotsika mtengo kapena makina.
Ngati, mmalo mwake, amagwira ntchito kuti apange vinyo wabwino kwambiri wa Tuscan , angakhale akupanga chinachake chomwe chiri chokhacho, ndipo chomwe chidzafunidwa nthawi zonse ndi akatswiri.
Mwina mukuganiza kuti Paolo amachita chiyani ndi mphesa kuchokera ku minda ya mpesa ya Cabernet ndi Syrah. Pangani vinyo, zomwe amalemba kuti Collezione De Marchi. Pali Cabernet Collezione De Marchi, yomwe inagonjetsa mapiri atatu a Gambero Rosso ndi Parker omwe ali ndi zaka 90, L'Eremo, Syra omwe anaika chotsatira chakumapeto kwa zaka zingapo zapitazo, kumbuyo kwa mipingo itatu ya Rhone Valley, ndi Chardonnay Collezione De Marchi, Chardonnay yemwe anali ndi mbiya yomwe Paolo adakali wokwanira, "ngakhale kuti zikhala bwino chaka chilichonse."
Komabe, laibulo la Isole e Olena, likuyimira vinyo wamba wa Tuscan omwe angayembekezere ku malo okhala m'chigawo cha Chianti Classico. Pali Chianti Classico, yopangidwa kuchokera ku 80% Sangiovese, Canaiolo, ndipo (ngati chaka chimafuna) mpaka 5% ya Syrah. Ndiye pali Cepparello, "zomwe Isole e Olena zili nazo," vinyo watsopano wa Sangiovese wokhala ndi 100% wokhala ndi Paolo wa Chianti Classico Riserva, komiti ya DOC inalola Chianti Classico kupangidwa kuchokera ku Sangiovese basi. Tsopano Chianti Classico ingapangidwe kuchokera kwa Sangiovese basi, tiwona zomwe Paolo akuganiza. Potsirizira pake, pali vinyo wamba wa Vinsanto, wa Tuscany wokalandira ndi wogwirizana, womwe umapangidwa kuchokera ku mphesa zoyera (Malvasia ndi Trebbiano) zomwe zimayambidwanso mu nthawi yokolola, zimaloledwa kuti ziume mphesa zouma, zowonjezeredwa mu Januwale, kenako zidzatenthedwa ndipo zidzakula kwa zaka 4 pamaso pa bottling. Zokolola za Paolo ndizochepa kwambiri, ndipo Vinsanto yake imatengedwa kuti ndi imodzi mwa maolivi apamwamba a ku Italy.
Alendo amalandiridwa ku Isole e Olena, ngakhale kuti simuyenera kuyembekezera kuti anthu asiye zomwe akuchita pokhapokha mutayitanitsa msonkhano; Nthawi yoyamba yomwe ndinapita ndinapeza anyamata angapo akukonza ngolo ndi wokwera nawo mu bwalo ("miyala yochotsa njenjete ikupha gehena"), ndipo idatha kuthamangira ku munda wamphesa watsopano (zonse, nyumba ali ndi maekala oposa 100 a minda ya mpesa) ndi Piero Masi, woyang'anira katundu, kuti awone momwe zinthu zikuyendera.
Kuti mufike ku Isole e Olena, mutenge msewu waukulu kuchokera ku Florence kupita ku Siena, ndipo mutuluke ku San Donato; dutsani San Donato kupita ku Castellina, ndipo mutembenuzire pomwe mukubwera ku chizindikiro cha Isole. Msewu, womwe tsopano wapangidwa, ndi chimodzi mwa zifukwa Paolo sakuchitira Agritourism: "Ndabwereka chipinda kwa mlungu, kamodzi," adandiuza. "Mnyamatayu anali ndi Bentley. Anatsika pansi pamene ankapita kunyumba, ndipo anachoka ku Florence mmawa wotsatira." Chifukwa china? "Zingatenge nthawi kuchokera ku vinyo wanga."
[Kusinthidwa ndi Danette St. Onge]